The Market Garden

by Barbara Rimkunas

This "Historically Speaking" column was published in the Exeter News-Letter on Friday, July 30, 2021.

Here’s a description of New England farmers published in the Exeter News-Letter in June of 1847:
            “Many thousand farmers in New England rear large families, pay all their debts ad taxes promptly, and live independently, well clothed and comfortable housed and provided for, and lay up money, on farms of 50 acres. The idea is, that these people labor severely. This is a great mistake. They have much, because they waste no time. Their horses and cattle, tools and implements, are attended to with clock-like regularity. Nothing is put off till tomorrow which can be done today. Economy is wealth, and system affords ease. These men are seldom in a hurry, except in harvest time. And in long winter evenings, or severe weather, which forbids employment out of doors, one makes corn brooms, another shoes, a third is a carpenter, cooper, or tailor; and one woman spins, another weaves, a third plaits Leighorn Bonnets. And the families thus occupied, are among the most healthy and cheerful in the world.”

It’s a rosy picture, but the reality of farming in New England was far from the serene world depicted. The image of the independent yeoman farmer was never accurate. The imported European diet, heavy on cultivated grains and domesticated meat sources, was difficult to maintain on New England’s rocky soils. Still, by adapting native products, such as corn, beans, squash and berries, it was possible to make a go of things. By the time the glowing description was written, however, both the availability of rich western land and railroad transportation of goods found New England farmers adapting yet again.

The Perkins farm – or farms, if we include descriptions of both Benjamin and Solomon Perkins, brothers, who had adjoining property – gives us a snapshot of local farming. Exeter Historical Society volunteer, Bill Gustin, graphed out the farm year as described in the 1861 diary of Benjamin’s son, B. Judkins. There are no descriptions of cozy evenings spent creating cash goods. Perkins, a young man of 23, had no reason to take notice of those activities done by women. His father was not a skilled craftsman outside of the farm, although he did do some jobbing at the new Granite House hotel in the winter months. No doubt he was perfectly able to do basic tasks, such as framing a shed or repairing farm equipment, just to keep the farm going. The busy part of the year began in April. Then, as now, farmers had a short growing season of about 150 frost free days. In April and May, Judson reported that his father and Uncle Solly had “plowed all fields” and sowed corn, oats, beans, barley, and potatoes. After those tasks were done, they “worked on the road” “hewed timber” and “framed the shed.” June was busy with the first hoeing of potatoes and corn, a task that was repeated in July. The hottest days of summer were spent haying – a task that took up the largest amount of the farmer’s time. Hay was essential as fodder for livestock. Both Benjamin and Solomon had horses, cattle, and pigs, although the exact number is not mentioned. The cattle were used for small-scale dairying and meat. Oxen were used for heavy farm work and field clearing. During the year, the Perkins family bought a yoke of cattle and a yoke of oxen. They sold a number of hogs, a heifer calf and a cow. Still, the farm herd must have been small, because they needed to purchase nine loads of manure to prepare the fields.

The farm had a sizeable orchard, which became a source of income in the fall. Cider was pressed and sold. The farms made a small profit selling butter, timber and shingles. The biggest income generator, however, was hay, which they were able to sell in January – well past the time of year when green produce was sold. The potatoes, oats, barley, beans, corn and pumpkins were used on the farm for food and fodder.

Local farmers, by the mid-century, had adapted to avoid direct competition with western farmers. The Perkins families planted no wheat for flour. Wheat was easily and cheaply produced and transported from western territories. It was simply not economically viable to plant wheat in the eastern states. Within a few decades, the meat industry would render cattle less common in New England, although dairying was still profitable enough to make Holstein studded New England hillsides a common sight.

By the turn of the century, New England agriculture was dominated by dairying and market gardening. Charles Treadwell, born in Massachusetts with New Hampshire lineage, moved to Exeter. The same age as B. Judson Perkins, he’d been trained as skilled engraver, a livelihood that was cut short when his eyesight began to fail. At his place on High Street, he began farming, “making specialties of market gardening, fruit culture and the raising of Holstein cattle,” according to the Exeter News-Letter. He was a charter member of the Gilman Grange. A bit of a local character, he posed for a photo of himself around 1897, bringing his goods to market. It was a nostalgic photo at best but does depict the type of small-scale farming that was rapidly spreading to family-owned farms.

Barbara Rimkunas is curator of the Exeter Historical Society. Support the Exeter Historical Society by becoming a member! Join online at: www.exeterhistory.org

Image: Charles Treadwell, c. 1897. Treadwell, a local farmer, specialized in market gardening – vegetables and fruits in season for local sale.